After a day of cold chairlifts and deep snow, there's nothing better than sinking into a steaming hot spring. The onsen is one of the best parts of a Japan ski trip.
It's also a place with clear rules. Follow them and you'll be welcomed. Ignore them and you'll get some very disappointed looks.
Before you get in
- Take your shoes off at the entrance and leave them in the lockers or shelves provided.
- Find the right side. Most onsens are separated by gender. Look for the curtains: red usually means women (女), blue usually means men (男). Check the characters, as the colours can swap.
- Undress completely in the changing room. No swimwear is allowed in a traditional onsen.
- Leave your big towel in your locker or basket. Bring only your small towel into the bathing area.
Wash first, every time
This is the most important rule. Before you get in the water, sit at one of the shower stations and wash your whole body thoroughly with soap, then rinse off completely. The onsen water is for soaking, not for washing.
In the water
- Never put your towel in the water. Fold it and put it on your head, or leave it on the side.
- Tie long hair up so it doesn't touch the water.
- Keep it quiet and relaxed. No splashing, swimming or loud conversations.
- No phones or cameras. Photos are not allowed in bathing areas.
- Ease in slowly. The water can be very hot. If you start to feel light-headed, get out and cool down.
What if you have tattoos?
Many onsens in Japan have historically banned tattoos, and some still do. Things are changing, especially in ski towns with lots of international visitors, but it's worth checking before you go.
- Look for tattoo-friendly onsens. Many resort towns have them. Ask at your accommodation.
- Cover small tattoos. Some onsens allow small tattoos if they're covered with a skin-coloured patch.
- Book a private onsen. Many ryokans and hotels offer private family baths (kashikiri) you can book by the hour.
Getting out
- Dry off before going back into the changing room. Use your small towel to wipe off excess water so you don't drip on the floor.
- Rehydrate. Hot water plus a big day on the mountain will leave you thirsty.
- Skip the drinks before you soak. Save the highball for afterwards.
What to bring
- A small towel (you can often buy or hire one on site)
- Cash for entry, as small onsens are often cash-only
- A hair tie
- A change of merino base layers to stay warm on the walk home
Where to soak on a ski trip
Nozawa Onsen has thirteen free public bathhouses in the village. Zao Onsen is famous for its sulphur-rich water. Most ski towns, from Niseko to Hakuba, have excellent onsens nearby. Find more in the JAPOW Hub resort guides, and read more about respecting local customs in the Respect the Mountain section.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do you wear anything in an onsen?
No. Traditional onsens are enjoyed without swimwear. You can bring a small towel into the bathing area, but it must not go in the water.
Can you go to an onsen with tattoos?
It depends on the onsen. Some ban tattoos, some allow small covered tattoos, and many ski towns have tattoo-friendly onsens. Private onsens are another option.
Do you shower before an onsen?
Yes. You must wash your whole body thoroughly with soap and rinse off before entering the water.
How long should you stay in an onsen?
Start with a few minutes at a time and take breaks. The water can be very hot, so listen to your body.
